Michelin star brings fame and queue to street food restaurant

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(11 Jan 2018) LEADIN:
A Bangkok street food restaurant has shot to fame after being awarded a coveted Michelin star by the famed travel guide.
Jay Fai’s traditional crab omelettes and stir-fried noodles are now in high demand, but you’ll need some patience if you’d like a taste.
STORYLINE:
If you want to dine at Bangkok’s hottest restaurant, you better arrive early.
Crowds begin forming outside street food vendor Jay Fai hours before opening. Food fans sit patiently on plastic chairs along the sidewalk.
Latecomers are told to add their name and phone number to the waiting list book, but even that’s “not guaranteed.”
The reason behind this restaurant’s sudden surge in popularity is that it was recently awarded a Michelin star – the first street food vendor in Thailand to receive the accolade.
The eatery became one of 16 restaurants in Thailand to receive a star, when the guide launched its first Thailand edition on 6 December.
The restaurant is run by 72-year-old Supinya Jansuta – or Jay Fai, for short.
She’s regularly seen cooking at two flaming street-side woks. She wears a ski mask to shield her eyes from the flaming pans.
“Of course, I am happy to receive the award. I hope Thailand will receive the award every year,” she says.
“I hope more Thai people will win the award next year, and they don’t just give it to Jay Fai again.”
Ever since receiving the star, Jay Fai’s once relatively quiet restaurant has become busier than ever.
The eatery is open from 3pm to 2am, but queues now begin forming way before opening.
By the afternoon, the waiting list is usually closed, and no more names are added.
The restaurant serves versions of traditional Thai dishes, such as crab omelette and stir-fried noodles. They’re all packed with fresh crab meat and super-size shrimps.
“My brother sent two video clips. So, I saw that video, so I am very (interested),” says Yu Yu Moe, a tourist from Myanmar.
“That’s why I come to, try to taste. But it takes a long time, but it doesn’t matter. We want to try.”
After waiting in line for over two hours, the Goldman family from Los Angeles leave satisfied.
“I would say bring a book,” says Emily.
“I would recommend coming, but just know that you’re going to be in for a long wait. Yes, bring a book,” says David.
Kenny Ng, a tourist from Birmingham, UK, tried Jay Fai’s crab omelette with his family, after a long, three-hour wait.
“It’s worth the wait. Yeah, it was quite good, but I probably wouldn’t wait again,” he says.
“It’s just one of those things where you come, you wait, you enjoy. And then, that’s it, yeah.”
Oliver Irvine, editor of lifestyle publication BK Magazine, says it was no surprise Jay Fai was awarded a Michelin star. It was always likely with Michelin’s first venture into Thailand.
“I think that it’s not just hype. There’s a lot about it that does warrant the star, but I do also think that Michelin set out intentionally wanting to give at least one Michelin star to somewhere, in Bangkok, some street food place,” he says.
Jay Fai is often featured in foreign travel guides, but is shunned by locals due to its high-priced street food.
In another corner of the bustling city, street food vendor Warun Deejai can’t understand why Jay Fai’s crab omelette is so expensive.
It’s priced at 800 to 1,000 Thai baht (approx. $25-$31 USD), compared to her pork omelette that costs just 40 baht (approx. $1.2 USD).
“I think 800 baht (approx. $25 USD) for crab omelette is too expensive,” she says.
“How much crab meat can you put in, 300 grams? It won’t have half a kilo of crab meat in there. It’s just an omelette.”

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